Last days - Stuttgart and Heidelberg

It's almost the end. Tomorrow, I return to London. But first, I wanna talk about my last few days in southern Germany.

It's been so nice to see Mary again, and because I know she's reading this blog, all I will say is that she has been delicious. Her mama is also adorable. Big thanks to the Gromova family for being kickass hosts!

However, my darling Mary forgot to mention how hilly Stuttgart is. And rainy. But now that I have the obligatory complaints out of the way, I can give my true feelings on the city. Stuttgart is nicely medium-sized, and perfect for those who want to avoid the country but also the huge cities. The metro system is a little confusing at first, but it seems to cover the city well and it operates at decently-paced intervals (although not for anyone who's lived in London, haha).

For car lovers, there are museums dedicated to Mercedes-Benz and Porsche here. But as I know nothing about cars, they were not on my itinerary, and I preferred to check out some of the parks and the city centre. Mary took me one to of her favorite spots, Bopser, where you can get great views of the city and the hills that are EVERYWHERE.

The next day, we went to Heidelberg. Now everyone raves about how beautiful Heidelberg is, and to some extent, I can see what they were talking about. It's just that it rained on and off for most of the day, and there was no sunlight whatsoever. We visited Heidelberg Castle, which was ruined in the French invasion but still pretty impressive. The view of the city that you get from there is also great, fog or no fog.

In Heidelberg, we went to this very traditional German restaurant, where I had veal and potatoes, and my first German beer (Verdict: the meal was great, the beer was good for beer...I guess.). Over the past few days, I've tried bretzels, the German version of cheesecake, the black bread, and the big banana, currywurst. To be honest, I enjoyed the pastries more, but I figured I couldn't leave Germany without trying something so typical. And thanks to Mary's mom, I've also gotten to try some tasty Russian-Ukrainian food (all unpronounceable).

This morning, Mary and I went to Mineralbad Leuze, a spa in Stuttgart that is great value for money (Also, who knew Stuttgart was hiding natural springs?). For 11 euro, we had access to all of their saunas and pools, as well as their steam room. I'd never even been to a spa before, and what a great way to pop that cherry. This must be why Stuttgarters are so chill. I will admit - the nudity in the sauna was a bit weird at first, but no one was peeping or being gross (except me actually), so that wasn't an issue for long.

I can't really think of an eloquent way to wrap this up. This trip has been one of the best experiences of my life, and I hope it's the first of many adventures. I am so glad that I got up off my ass and did it. The memories I've accumulated will always be there, ready to be dusted off on the most tedious or depressing of days. As Anita Desai said, 'Wherever you go becomes a part of you somehow.'

No matter what the future holds, no matter what other countries or cities I venture to, I will always remember winter 2015 when I froze/hiked/gelato-ed my ass off and saw a little piece of Europe. Now I'm determined to see more of it, and I want to believe I'll get that chance.

If you've ever had dreams of travelling, and something trivial is holding you back, get over it. You won't regret it, trust me.

A bientôt, Europe! See you soon! Don't worry, you and your seemingly endless supply of pigeons haven't seen the last of me!

Bye bye Berlin

My last two days in Berlin have been extremely busy. It's a huge city with a lot of things to do/see, and I've been trying to fit in as much as I can. I'm pleased to say that I've seen everything that I wanted to see here, though I could easily come back and spend a few days seeing entirely new stuff.

I started Tuesday by walking down Kurfurstendamm, a famous shopping street that's allegedly modelled on the Champs Elysees (but is clearly inferior). I then strolled around the Charlottenburg Palace Gardens, before moving on to the East Side Gallery and the Berlin Wall Memorial. This led to me comforting myself afterwards with a glass of wine.

Today was spent in Potsdam, touring Palace Sans Souci and its gardens, as well as the historic town centre. Potsdam is only about 35 km outside of Berlin, which makes it one of the most convenient day trips you can do. It was for that reason I decided to go there instead of Dresden, which is further away (I've spent enough time on trains over the past three weeks, thank you very much.).

Potsdam seems like a decent city, but its appeal is very limited in winter. The famous gardens lie dormant, as do several of its palaces. Sans Souci was nice, but honestly no more impressive than any other castle I've seen during this trip. I did get to indulge my inner IR nerd and see Cecilienhof Palace, the site of the Potsdam Conference in 1945.

One of the best things about being in Berlin is getting to stand in places where history was created - Brandenburg Gate, the wall, Cecilienhof , and more. I feel like coming here isn't about being a tourist; it's also about educating yourself and coming to grips with some very ugly history. I wouldn't recommend Berlin for its architecture, but I think it's a city that everyone should visit at least once in their lives.

Thankfully, the weather has been cooperative for the last couple of days, and I got to enjoy Berlin in its sunny gory (for the most part). I've been fortunate to meet some great people over the course of my trip, especially during this last week. It's so great to see more and more women travelling alone. Makes me feel like I'm part of some big sisterhood.

Tomorrow, I use my Interrail pass for the last time to take a morning train down to Stuttgart. I'll be reunited with my Durham flatmate, Mary, and I plan to spend the next few days seeing the city and its neighbour, Heidelberg (which everyone says is absolutely gorgeous). After that, my time on the continent is up, and I return to London.

I'm going to save the mushy wrap-up for the actual end of my travels, but I want to thank everyone who's bothered to read even a paragraph of my ramblings. I created this blog so that I could have a diary of my trip, and I feel satisfied that it will be a nice addition to my memories. I hope that this week isn't the last I get to use it, but time will tell how possible that is.

Peace out.

Ich bin ein Berliner (or something like that)

Ah Berlin. You promised me sun and then proceeded to rain/snow for most of the day. As I foolishly believed your forecast, I left my umbrella at home, and suffered for that. But like any good traveller,  I didn't let inclement weather deter me from my adventures.

Being in Berlin reminds you that it is one of the most historically significant places in the 20th century. From the Brandenburg Gate to Checkpoint Charlie to Bebelplatz, it's incredible to reflect on the history that this city holds. Admittedly, it is quite sobering (especially if you do Topography of Terror tour), but the insight you gain is worth being depressed for a while (Although I am avoiding concentration camps because I am not a masochist.).

Architecture-wise, Berlin is nothing special, but l knew that going in. There are beautiful buildings scattered about, like those on Museum Island and the Gendarmenmarkt. And there is the Tiergarten, a huge park that has a zoo and several lakes, among other things. It is decent in winter, and probably amazing in the spring/summer.

Coming from Prague, I'm having culture shock with Berlin prices. Imagine when I return to London! Prague has ruined me for Western Europe. I paid almost 3 euro for a cappuccino and wept.

I could see myself living in Berlin though. This comment is based on minimal observation, but I like cities with good transport links and an array of attractions. But I dunno if the constant presence of the past would just depress me all the time. And there's that tricky me not speaking a word of German thing to consider.

Also, why are Germans so tall? In buses, on the metro, in bathrooms - the thing to hold onto/hang your bag on is ridiculously high. Do they not realise the rest of us aren't as evolved as they are?

I'm supposed to go on a tour of Potsdam tomorrow, but I'm wavering, as there are still many things I want to do and that would leave me with only one more day in Berlin. And just in case anyone wants to know, I still have not tried German beer or sausage. I will, eventually, for the former, but the latter is a lost cause.

I ended my day with an evening tour of the German Parliament. I got to go up to the dome and see a panorama of Berlin at night,  though I have no photos because my electronics failed me. It's a bitch when that happens. 

We'll see how tomorrow goes. Hopefully my success at jaywalking in different countries doesn't come to an end.

Prague, why so beautiful?

Guys, I love Prague. Really, I love it. I said yesterday that as soon as I arrived, I could immediately see the beauty of the city. Exploring it today has only confirmed my thoughts. Prague is BEEYOOTIFUL. Aside from Paris, I don't think I've ever been so immediately taken with a city

If I hadn't already booked my hostel in Berlin, I would stay another day. As it is, I'm catching a later train tomorrow so that I can have a few more hours here. When I was planning my trip, Prague was the last addition to the list. I am so glad that I put it on there, because it is absolutely stunning.

I only will end up having a day and a half of sunlight hours here. Knowing this, I tried my best to cram in almost everything today - Prague Castle, a walking tour of the Old Town, the Dancing House, Petrin Tower, and more. It meant that I barely had time to eat or sit down, but it was so worth it.

I started in the Mala Strana/Lesser Town district, which is where the Castle and my hostel are. From there, I visited Petrin Hill, which not only had the Tower (Prague's answer to the Eiffel), but also this monument erected for the victims of communism (This middle-aged lady, who should know better, took a selfie in front of the sculptures of decaying bodies and all I could think was, Really?).

I then saw the Dancing Building, which is striking, but in the end, just a building. I was more fascinated by the views of the river and how incredibly well the Prague medieval architecture has aged (Not being bombed in WWII also helped.).

From there, it was time for my tour, which was given by a guy from Leicester, of all places. He was great, kooky and funny, and totally suited for the  job. I love hearing about the history of all these cities I've visited. It really gives meaning to studying the buildings, as opposed to just snapping photos because I think they're pretty.

BTW, I want to take the opportunity to give myself props for climbing up Petrin Hill. And the mile hike to the Sleeping Beauty castle in Bavaria. I will never understand how people hike for fun, but at least I've moved my lazy ass and tried my best to go out of my comfort zone. I also realise I am incredibly out of shape, but that is a problem to be rectified after I'm done vacationing and I have to pretend as though I'm taking care of my body.

I haven't had a chance to try traditional Czech food, because a)I am not using my debit card at ATMs so I can avoid charges, and many places don't take cards; and b)I only took out just enough krona to cover my accommodation costs and the barest of food budgets. I don't feel like I'm missing too much though - it seems very meat and potatoes (I'm not knocking it, it's just that I'm not a huge fan of red meat.).

I do plan to try some of the German bread and pastries, as I've heard great things. I'm approaching the final week of this adventure, but I won't dwell on that. I still have time to make you all envious, and it is not a duty I take lightly.

I can easily see myself returning to Prague. I can't imagine how anyone would think once would be enough. Also, before I forget to mention it, Prague is sooo cheap in comparison to a lot of other European cities, especially London. there is nowhere in London where I could find a cappuccino for the equivalent of 2 euro. Sigh.

Prague, I'll be back, no worries. I still have to try goulash.

Beautiful Bavaria and Prague

I spent my second and last day in Munich on a tour of the Bavarian countryside - King Ludwig II's castles and the Romantic Road. It was nice, although you can only enter the castles through a guided tour, and they each were only about 20 minutes. Wish I'd had more time in then but I knew what I was getting into.

I've said it before and I'll say it again - the amount of money that royalty had and had at its disposal is completely disgusting. I take a perverse sort of pleasure in going from castle to castle and marvelling at the craftsmanship, but also at the waste of it all.

I didn't expect to like Munich as much as I did. I really only visited because everyone said I should,  and you guys did not lead me wrong. Bavaria is beautiful (duh, post title). I would definitely like to return at some point and see more.

After a 6 hour train ride, I arrived in Prague late this afternoon. I haven't seen too much yet (just Charles Bridge and the Lennon Wall), but even just walking to my hostel, I was struck by how beautiful the architecture is. I've never felt so positively about a city on first glance. Kinda wish I had more time here now than the measly day I gave myself while planning this trip.

Tomorrow I will be touring the Old Town and Prague Castle. I'm really looking forward to it; Prague seems to be even prettier than everyone says it is. Look out for an update then.

Venice wrap-up and Hallo Munich

Greetings from Munich! I arrived at 6 am today and immediately missed the warmth of Italy. Preparing yourself to go exploring is so much easier in non-zero weather. Who'd have thought?

For my last day in Venice, I visited the islands of Burano and Murano. They were very pretty, especially the former. But they are mostly tourist haunts now, with dozens of shops and stalls. And of course, I gavr in and bought jewellery (Murano is famous for its glasswork.) cuz I'm weak like that.

Randomly, I went to the islands with this girl I'd met in line at the Campanile the previous day. We didn't plan it at all; we were both at the vaporetto stop and realised we had a common destination. It's nice to have the occasional companion,  and she was very friendly. I also got to practise my French with her!

I then went to the closing of the Carnival, where they raised the St. Mark flag and had a traditional gondoliers' concert. People were dancing in the square and it was just such a cool moment. But I almost missed it - as predicted, I got lost on the way to the square because I tried to do it by foot. I was becoming increasingly frustrated but then I stumbled onto it with minutes to spare.

The night train was not the most comfortable experience, but I'll look on the bright side and be glad I had a bunk instead of just a chair. Upon arrival in Munich, I immediately set out to see the English Gardens, which is apparently the largest park entirely within city limits in the world. There wasn't too much to see because Munich is still recovering from a snowy last few weeks, but I did see some of the highlights. Unfortunately, I did not see anyone surfing, which I'm told that they do.

Next, I did a walking tour of the city centre, which was great for learning some of the history (especially Munich's role in the rise of Hitler) and local legends. As part of the tour, I saw that famous beer hall. It meant nothing to me, since I only drink beer when I have no other option. I also tried and enjoyed this traditional Bavarian pork sandwich, but the name escapes me because it's one of those German words I can't pronounce (which is basically every word in German). And the old churches scattered around the centre are all beautiful in their own ways (But the Glockenspiel is so-so.).

My only regret is that I didn't get a chance to go to the top of the New Town Hall Tower. Apparently it has a great view of the city and you can see the Alps on a good day. Today was not a good day, but I've had a nice little streak going of seeing this type of view in each city I've visited (with the exception of Lyon). Alas, due to Interrail schedule juggling, I leave Munich too early on Friday to see it (Tomorrow I'm taking a day trip to see some of the castles, including the Sleeping Beauty one, so I doubt I'll have time.).

Doesn't really matter though - I feel like I've seen quite a bit here just after today. The architecture is beautifully interesting, although I realise the majority of it was reconstructed after the war. Everyone says that to see Munich is to see Germany at its traditional finest, and I can see what they mean. Also, their metro is great,  which is another subtle thing I use to judge cities by. If this is a preview of what the rest of Germany has in store for me, then bring it on.

Carnival and Venice

Arriving in Venice for the last few days of Carnival was a lucky coincidence. I'd like to claim that I had the foresight to schedule my trip appropriately, but we all know I've done most things randomly so far.

Nothing prepares you for the sight of the Grand Canal on a sunny day. The water looks turquoise, and the brightly painted buildings on the canal front are something to behold. The vaporetto is slow as heck, but one of its advantages is that it allows you to get a birds-eye view of the Grand Canal. Otherwise, it is an exercise in patience.

Venice is definitely a city of tourists. You see them wander past on their gondolas (And for 80 euro for 30 bare minutes, not worth it for me.). You queue behind and trip over them to get around St. Mark's Square. I can only imagine how frustrating it must be in the summer for high season.

Yesterday I was a typical tourist - the Basilica, the Campanile (the view of Venice and the lagoons from the top is truly stunning), Rialto Bridge, and Doge's Palace. I also got to see one of the daily mask competitions that they hold during Carnival. It was good fun, and it's crazy to see the effort some people put into their costumes.

Today I want to do a bit more exploring, and check out some neighbourhoods and perhaps even one of the islands (Burano probably). I've heard that wandering the back streets and getting lost in the smaller canals is a must,  although for my own peace of mind, I don't want to get too lost.

It's always fun to travel with someone else, but I have to say that I've found being on my own quite fun. I get to set my own itinerary without anyone else nagging me. And in places as beautiful as Venice and Tuscany, being alone is the farthest thing from your mind. You're just trying to soak up as much of the local atmosphere as you can. Alone or not, you're damn lucky to be there! (Though I will admit that as a solo female traveller, you really do have to be on guard for the creepy men that exist everywhere. It's so unfortunate that we face a situation like this and most men don't. )

I've booked a night train to Munich. The temperature difference there is about 10C.  Oh Italy, I should have scheduled you for last. I've enjoyed your (relatively) warm weather too much to give it up now. Guess I just better make time for one last life-changing gelato.